10:00 p.m., June 19, 2022, amended to 10:18 p.m., June 19, 2022
From Tuesday June 21 to Sunday June 26, the spring-summer 2023 men’s fashion week will take place in Paris. More than sixty presentations and fashion shows will be organized throughout the capital. In addition to luxury labels such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Dior, Givenchy, Celine and Loewe, international designers have joined with the return of Paul Smith and the arrival of Marine Serre on the men’s scene. But also young designers unknown to the general public. Probably not for long.
Davide Marello, the new romantic
Davide Marello draws his floating landscapes in watercolor. They will be printed by textile artisans in Como on large silk shirts. Born in Asti, in Piedmont, he speaks perfect French, having spent most of his holidays in Paris with his parents to visit all the museums of the capital. An esthete in love with gardens, he has chosen to baptize his Spring-Summer 2023 collection “Luncheon on the Grass”, taking a poetic and inspired look at men’s fashion. The art of “shape the light in large sections” evoked by Zola in connection with the famous painting by Édouard Manet, it is also the way in which this romantic sees his job.
With him, everything starts with line and color: “Without this light, we cannot capture movement. To achieve a silhouette, you have to know how to drop a fabric on a body. » A graduate of the Istituto Marangoni in Milan, he worked at Ter et Bantine, Dirk Bikkembergs, then for nine years at Giorgio Armani, where he says he learned “ease in structure”. Before a stint at Boglioli as artistic director of men’s and women’s fashion, then two years at Gucci. From now on, it is under the Davi label that he offers his collections, mainly sold on Instagram, a bouquet of woven emotions and sensations. He chose to present the summer of 2023 in the garden of the Opéra Montmartre, a youth hostel in New Athens located in an 18th century private mansion. An ideal place to scroll through its Toile de Jouy prints, colored with Pompeian ruins.
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Anthony Alvarez, the urban surfer
At the head of the Bluemarble brand, it is he who opens the ball of the week, at Molière high school. A seventh collection placed under the sign of Jimi Hendrix and Larry Clark, for this globetrotter fascinated since childhood by urban culture. Born in Washington to a Filipino father and a Toulouse mother, Anthony Alvarez grew up in the United States before coming to settle with his family in France at the age of 7. No wave can resist this surfer who, from Biarritz to the Daku island of Siargao, has expanded his passion to fashion because he “did not find[t] not how [s]’dress “…
It’s an escape locker room
Self-taught, he founded his own label, Bluemarble (“blue marble”), in reference to the photograph of the Earth taken in 1972 by the crew of Apollo 17, the first showing the planet fully illuminated. An ode to light that crosses all its collections with generous prints and which has been able to federate a real community of nearly 40,000 subscribers. In her workshop in the Haut-Marais, pink lamé hoodies, orange denim, moving stripes, XL jeans embroidered with silver sequins and flat areas of giant flowers revisit the world of streetwear and boardsports. The waves, we find them printed on his jackets, in psychedelic mode. The colors burst like ripe fruit and the ample cuts testify to this cosmopolitan and borderless allure inspired by the MTV generation. “It’s an escape locker room”, assures Anthony Alvarez, whose brand was one of the only two French finalists for the last LVMH prize (along with Weinsanto). In 2022, Bluemarble, now distributed in twenty-five points of sale around the world (from the Bon Marché in Paris to the Webster in Miami), testifies to a renewed optimism in eco-responsible mode. Published in a limited series, his clothes are produced exclusively in Europe.
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Pierre-François Valette, the pop Parisian
Son of a neuropsychiatrist and a cardiologist, he has long played the violin, the accordion, even sang, studied medicine, before embarking on law studies, to finally branch off into fashion. A student at the IFM, he won the Saint Laurent Institut prize in 2019, and launched his brand a year later. “The pandemic has accelerated everything, we have mastered digital tools faster”, he explains. For this tribute collection to Joe Dallesandro, muse of Andy Warhol and sex symbol of the underground cinema of the 1970s, colors are in the spotlight and the key word is freedom, the body.
For the first time, Pierre-François Valette even cut out the clothes (up to 42 pieces for a coat), turning the tailor spirit into pop fashion. He imagined the Factory “Mediterranean Getaway”. At the Palais de Tokyo, it is therefore pink hair and hair daisies that he will present “Little Joe”, before flying a few days later to Dubai, where he will present his summer collection. Floral prints, blindstitched tank tops, sleeveless blazers and silver leather pants. The season promises to be hot.