The Paris fashion week dedicated to the spring-summer 2023 collections runs until Sunday with, among the first discoveries of the season, Bluemarble, Etudes Studio and Bianca Saunders.
During Fashion Week, the ultra-wide range of proposals potentially speaks to everyone. This season, the return to a pre-pandemic rhythm (presentations and fashion shows, cocktails and parties abound) does not prevent us from perceiving the same desire for well-dressed relaxation, without crazy extravagance but with a common concern for detail and beautiful material.
Bluemarble, a brand founded by Anthony Alvarez in 2019, brings together in the courtyard of the Molière high school (16th arrondissement of Paris) a heterogeneous community, young and eager for light adventures. The inspiration for this collection was born, according to the designer, in the riffs of Jimi Hendrix from the 1967 period, which can be discerned on baggy Bermuda shorts with psychedelic and multicolored prints as if airbrushed or embroidered clovers on cargo pants khaki. The same four-leaf clovers return in a panther and studded version on beige denim trousers worn with a matching jacket topped with sparkles. The work of Anthony Alvarez, Franco-American now living in Paris, has just been selected among the finalists for the Pierre Bergé prize created by the National Association for the Development of Fashion Arts (Andam).
Spirit of workwear
At the other end of Paris, on the green corridor on the 19th arrondissement side, which has long served as the border between the capital and its suburbs, Studio studies brings together his followers, including Orelsan and his band, who figure prominently. The rapper is there, dressed in one of the silhouettes of the show, a multicolored bermuda shirt set whose abstract pattern is taken from a painting by the artist Jean-Baptiste Bernadet.
The models follow the old railway lines at the foot of the towers of the Curial-Cambrai city (its sixteen towers make it the largest in Paris). A group of children installed at the window of the family apartment take advantage of this funny spectacle which does not even last twenty minutes (waiting not included). The collection of the Parisian collective led for ten years by Jérémie Egry, Aurélien Arbet and José Lamalie explores the universe of workwear which seems to harbor infinite possibilities. Here Etudes goes so far as to seize the apron of the workshop, in copper jeans, on which appears the new diamond-shaped logo of the brand, worn on plaid pants and a sleeveless sage green T-shirt. This same sage green found on a denim jacket and Bermuda shorts worn with high-top Doc Martens. The spirit of workwear is also nestled in a jumpsuit with a shirt collar and cargo pants cut in a soft beige.
Sweet potato and plantain
We find the spirit of cool associated with unique cuts and comfortable materials at Bianca Saunders, a talent from London, spotted by the Andam jury which awarded him its grand prize last year. The Londoner of Jamaican origin, who is parading for the second time in Paris, likes to mix her roots in some of her looks. This time, she prints on a T-shirt the starchy foods that have always accompanied her meals: sweet potato and plantain.
The entire collection is also punctuated by twists that transform a basic into a garment with character: wide jeans sewn on the bias and roughly pinched at the waist, a sweater folded over itself on the chest, a tank top collar asymmetrical brick-coloured, a double-layer petrol blue and rust T-shirt, trousers with a turquoise velvet effect slightly split on the front of the foot. Saunders also distils a touch of psychedelia in silhouettes with a checkered print version of hallucinogenic mushrooms. His mastery of the cut can be read in the slightly oversized proportions of these jackets and blousons, or this trench with a raw edge.